Kanha National Park

Kanha National Park is a tiger reserve in the Mandla and Balaghat districts of Madhya Pradesh, covering sal and bamboo forest broken by large open meadows in the Maikal hills. Kanha became a national park in 1955 and one of India's first tiger reserves under Project Tiger in 1973, and it is widely regarded as one of the best managed parks in the country.

Kanha National Park is best known for saving the hard-ground barasingha, a swamp deer whose numbers fell to a few dozen in the 1970s; careful habitat work brought it back, and it is now the state animal of Madhya Pradesh. Tigers are seen regularly in the meadows, along with leopard, gaur, sambar, spotted deer, wild dog, sloth bear and more than 300 bird species. The forests of this region are often linked with the landscape of Kipling's The Jungle Book, though Kipling never visited. The park is divided into zones reached through the Khatia, Mukki and Sarhi gates, and Gond and Baiga communities live in the buffer villages.

What to see

• Tiger and barasingha in the open meadows of the Kanha zone
• Bamni Dadar, the hilltop sunset point
• The Kanha interpretation centre and museum
• Gaur herds and wild dog packs in the sal forest
• Birdlife including racket-tailed drongos, hornbills and eagles

What to wear

On safari at Kanha National Park wear khaki, olive or brown, not white or bright colours. Winter mornings in open jeeps from December to February can be close to freezing, so bring a down jacket, gloves, a warm hat and a scarf against the dust; by May the afternoons pass 40°C and light cotton, a hat and sunscreen are needed. The Gond and Baiga communities around the park have their own dress, and Baiga women are known for their tattoos and heavy bead necklaces.

Local food to try

Most meals at Kanha National Park are taken at the lodges, many of which cook local produce. Look for dishes made with kodo and kutki, the small millets grown by Gond and Baiga farmers, and mahua flower sweets. Madhya Pradesh staples such as poha, dal bafla and bhutte ka kees are widely served, and vegetarian food is easy everywhere.

Good to know

• Best time: October to June; March to May for tiger sightings; closed July to September
• Hours: morning and afternoon safari slots, timed to sunrise and sunset
• Entry: online safari permits by zone, plus gypsy and guide charges
• Allow at least 2 nights for 3 or 4 safaris
• Getting there: about 160 km from Jabalpur airport by road
• Book permits well ahead; stay in the vehicle and do not feed animals

Nearby places

Sirpur, with its 7th-century brick temple, is about 250 km east in Chhattisgarh. Within Madhya Pradesh, the Khajuraho Temples are about 350 km north and Sanchi Stupa about 400 km north-west.