Sirpur

Sirpur is a village and archaeological site on the Mahanadi river in Chhattisgarh, about 80 km from Raipur, that was the capital of the Panduvamshi kings of Dakshina Kosala between roughly the 6th and 8th centuries. Sirpur was a thriving centre for Hindu, Buddhist and Jain communities at the same time, and the Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang recorded monasteries in this region in the 7th century.

The reason most visitors come to Sirpur is the Lakshmana Temple, built in brick in the 7th century and traditionally credited to Queen Vasata, in memory of her husband. Its tower carries fine moulded brick decoration and a carved stone doorframe, and it is one of the best preserved brick temples of its age in India. Large excavations since the early 2000s have uncovered temples, Buddhist viharas, a market street and residential quarters, showing how big the city was. An annual music and dance festival is held at Sirpur each winter, and the site remains quiet and uncrowded the rest of the year.

What to see

• The Lakshmana Temple, with its brick tower and carved stone doorway
• Surang Tila, a temple complex on a tall stepped platform
• Tivardeva Vihara and Anand Prabhu Kuti Vihara, the Buddhist monasteries
• The excavated market street and granaries
• The site museum near the Lakshmana Temple, with recovered sculpture
• The Gandheshwar Temple by the river, still in worship

What to wear

Sirpur is spread out and exposed, so wear light cotton, a hat and comfortable walking shoes. Cover shoulders and knees and remove shoes at the Gandheshwar Temple, which is an active shrine. From March to June temperatures in this part of Chhattisgarh often pass 40°C, so go in the cooler months. Chhattisgarhi women traditionally wear the lugra, a cotton saree, with silver jewellery; men wear dhoti and a short kurta.

Local food to try

Chhattisgarh's everyday cooking is rice-based. Try chila, a thin rice flour pancake; fara, steamed rice dumplings tempered with mustard seed; and muthia. In summer, locals eat bore baasi, rice soaked overnight in water and eaten with onion and chilli. Dehrori, a fried rice sweet in syrup, appears at festivals. Food at Sirpur itself is basic, so most visitors eat in Raipur, where Chhattisgarhi thalis and vegetarian restaurants are easy to find.

Good to know

• Best time: October to February; January for the Sirpur festival
• Hours: open daily, daylight hours; the museum may keep shorter hours
• Entry: small ASI fee for the Lakshmana Temple; foreigners pay more
• Allow 2 to 3 hours to see the main monuments
• Getting there: about 80 km north-east of Raipur by road
• Keep off excavated walls and platforms

Nearby places

The Bastar region and Chitrakote Falls are about 330 km south, a long day's drive or a flight to Jagdalpur. Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh is roughly 250 km north-west.