Khajuraho Temples

The Khajuraho Temples are a group of Hindu and Jain temples in the Chhatarpur district of Madhya Pradesh, built mostly between about 950 and 1050 CE by the Chandela dynasty. The Khajuraho group of monuments is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed in 1986, and is known worldwide for the richness of its sculpture, including its erotic carvings.

The Chandelas are said to have built about 85 temples at Khajuraho, of which around 25 survive. The town lost importance after the 13th century, and the temples were left largely to the forest, which helped protect them. A British officer, T. S. Burt, brought them to wider notice in 1838. The erotic panels make up only a small part of the carving; most show gods, dancers, musicians, warriors, animals and scenes of daily life, set on tall temple towers meant to recall mountain peaks. The Matangeshvara Temple is still in daily worship, and the Khajuraho Dance Festival brings classical dancers to the western group each February.

What to see

• Kandariya Mahadeva, the largest and most elaborate temple, dedicated to Shiva
• Lakshmana Temple, with some of the finest friezes of processions and battles
• Vishvanatha, Chitragupta and Devi Jagadambi temples in the western group
• The Varaha shrine, a single stone boar covered in carved figures
• The Jain temples of the eastern group, including Parsvanath
• The Duladeo and Chaturbhuj temples of the southern group

What to wear

Dress modestly at the Khajuraho Temples, covering shoulders and knees, and remove shoes before climbing onto the temple platforms; socks help on hot stone. From April to June temperatures pass 40°C, so wear a hat and light cotton and carry water. In winter, mornings are cool. Bundelkhand's traditional dress includes the dhoti and pagdi turban for men and brightly coloured sarees or lehengas for women, with heavy silver jewellery.

Local food to try

Madhya Pradesh favourites include poha with jalebi for breakfast, dal bafla, baked wheat dumplings with dal and ghee, and bhutte ka kees, a spiced grated corn dish. In Bundelkhand, mahua flowers are used in sweets. Khajuraho's small centre around the western group has restaurants catering to international visitors, and vegetarian food is widely available.

Good to know

• Best time: October to March; February for the dance festival
• Hours: daily, sunrise to sunset; sound and light show in the evening
• Entry: ASI ticket for the western group; foreign visitors pay a higher rate
• Allow a full day for the western, eastern and southern groups
• Getting there: Khajuraho airport is about 5 km away; Jhansi is about 175 km by road
• Photography is allowed; tripods and drones need permission

Nearby places

Khajuraho is often combined with the Taj Mahal in Agra, about 400 km north-west. Within Madhya Pradesh, Sanchi Stupa is about 380 km south-west near Bhopal, and Kanha National Park is roughly 350 km south.