Unakoti

Unakoti is an ancient Shaiva pilgrimage site in the Unakoti district of northern Tripura, near Kailashahar, where huge figures of Shiva and other deities are carved into the rock face of a forested hillside. Unakoti's carvings and scattered stone images are generally dated to between the 7th and 9th centuries, and the site is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India.

The name Unakoti means one less than a crore, or one less than ten million. Legend says Shiva was travelling to Kashi with a crore of gods and stopped here for the night, telling them all to rise before dawn. Only Shiva woke in time, so he cursed the others to turn to stone, leaving one less than a crore behind. The largest carving, the head of Unakotiswara Kal Bhairava, is about 9 m tall, with an elaborate headdress of similar size, flanked by female figures believed to be Durga and Ganga. In 2022 Unakoti was placed on India's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status.

What to see

• The Unakotiswara Kal Bhairava head, about 9 m tall
• The flanking goddess figures and carved faces across the cliff
• Ganesha images carved beside a stream and small waterfall
• Stone sculptures of Nandi and other deities along the path
• Forest trails and steps linking the carving groups

What to wear

Unakoti involves many steps and forest paths, which can be slippery after rain, so wear shoes with good grip and light, breathable clothes. Bring a hat and water in summer, an umbrella in the monsoon, and insect repellent. Unakoti is a place of worship; dress modestly and remove shoes where worshippers do at active shrines. Tripuri women wear the rignai and risa, and Bengali pilgrims often visit in saree and dhoti during the fair.

Local food to try

Stalls at Unakoti sell tea and snacks, especially during the fair. Kailashahar and Dharmanagar have simple eateries serving rice, dal, fish curry and Bengali sweets. Look out for Tripuri dishes such as chakhwi, a bamboo shoot stew, and berma, fermented fish cooked with vegetables. Vegetarian meals are easy to find, especially around the temples.

Good to know

• Best time: October to March; the Ashokastami fair in March or April draws large crowds
• Open in daylight, roughly 9am to 5pm
• Free entry
• Allow two to three hours
• About 8 km from Kailashahar and about 180 km north of Agartala; nearest railway stations are Kumarghat and Dharmanagar
• Do not climb on the carvings; photography is allowed

Nearby places

Unakoti is a long day or overnight trip from Agartala, where Ujjayanta Palace houses the state museum, and Neermahal lies south of the capital. Across the border to the east, Reiek Heritage Village near Aizawl is the closest point of interest in Mizoram, several hours by road.