Neermahal

Neermahal is a royal summer palace standing in the middle of Rudrasagar Lake at Melaghar in Tripura, about 53 km south of Agartala. Neermahal was built between 1930 and 1938 for Maharaja Bir Bikram Kishore Manikya, and its name means water palace. It is the largest lake palace in eastern India and is often compared with the lake palaces of Rajasthan.

The palace blends Hindu and Islamic architecture, with domes, pavilions, balconies and towers in white and red. It is divided into two parts: the western wing held the royal living quarters, and the eastern wing was an open-air theatre where dance, drama and music were staged for the royal family. After the end of princely rule the palace fell into neglect, and it has since been restored by the state. Rudrasagar Lake around it is a Ramsar wetland and a winter home for migratory birds, and each year the Neermahal Water Festival brings boat races to the lake.

What to see

• The approach across Rudrasagar Lake by boat
• The palace towers, domes and balconies from the water
• The royal quarters and the open-air theatre wing
• Migratory waterbirds on the lake in winter
• The evening light and sound show, when running

What to wear

Neermahal is hot and humid for much of the year, so wear light cotton, a hat and sunscreen for the boat ride and the open terraces. Sandals or shoes with grip are best for boarding the boats. Winters are mild, with cool evenings on the water. Dress modestly. Tripuri women traditionally wear the rignai and risa, handwoven in bright patterns, and Bengali women the saree.

Local food to try

Food stalls near the Rudrasagar jetty serve tea, snacks and simple rice meals. In Melaghar and Agartala, try Tripuri dishes such as berma (fermented fish) with vegetables, chakhwi (bamboo shoot stew) and gudok, a mix of boiled vegetables and fish. Fish from the lake appears in Bengali-style curries, and vegetarian thalis are easy to find.

Good to know

• Best time: October to March, when the lake is full and birds are present
• Usually open about 9am to 4:30pm; boats run in daylight
• Small entry ticket plus boat fare
• Allow two to three hours
• At Melaghar, about 53 km south of Agartala, around 1.5 hours by road
• Wear the life jacket offered on the boat; photography is allowed

Nearby places

Neermahal is usually visited as a day trip from Agartala, home of Ujjayanta Palace. The rock carvings of Unakoti lie in the far north of Tripura, and Mizoram's capital, with Solomon's Temple, is a long overland journey to the east.