Chang La

Chang La is a high mountain pass at about 5,360 metres on the road between Leh and Pangong Lake in Ladakh. Chang La is crossed by almost everyone heading to Pangong, and snow often lingers on its slopes well into summer.

The name Chang La is usually explained as the pass to the north, or the pass to Changthang, the high plateau of eastern Ladakh where nomadic herders graze yaks, sheep and pashmina goats. The road is maintained by the Border Roads Organisation. At the top there are prayer flags, the Chang La Baba temple, and an army cafe serving hot tea, often free. As at Khardung La, the air is very thin, with about half the oxygen of sea level, so stop only briefly, move slowly and drink water. The drive down on the Pangong side passes Tangtse and high valleys where yaks and wild horses graze.

What to see

• The summit prayer flags and the Chang La Baba temple
• Snowfields beside the road, even in July
• Views back over the Indus valley on the climb from Sakti
• Yaks and marmots on the Pangong side
• Tangtse village below the pass

What to wear

Chang La is cold year round, with wind and snow even in summer, so wear a down jacket, gloves, a warm hat and thermal layers. Bring sunglasses and sunscreen against snow glare, and shoes with grip on icy ground. Ladakhi herders wear the goncha, a thick woollen robe tied with a sash, ideal for this cold.

Local food to try

The army cafe at the top serves hot tea and snacks. Dhabas in Sakti on the Leh side and Tangtse on the Pangong side serve thukpa noodle soup, skyu (a hearty stew of thumb-pressed wheat pasta and vegetables), momos, khambir flatbread with apricot jam, and salty butter tea. Vegetarian food is widely available on this road.

Good to know

• Best from June to September; the road can close after snowfall
• Road open subject to weather
• Foreign visitors need a Protected Area Permit for Pangong
• Allow 15 to 20 minutes at the top, no more
• About 75 km from Leh, 2.5 to 3 hours by road
• Acclimatise at least two days in Leh first

Nearby places

Chang La is on the road from Leh to Pangong Lake, which passes Thiksey Monastery and Hemis on the way out of Leh.