Pangong Lake

Pangong Lake, or Pangong Tso, is a brackish, high-altitude lake in eastern Ladakh at about 4,225 metres, stretching roughly 134 km from Ladakh into Tibet. Only part of Pangong Lake lies in India; the larger share lies across the border in Tibet, and the line through the water is still disputed. Tso simply means lake in Ladakhi and Tibetan.

Pangong Lake is known for changing colour through the day, from deep blue to turquoise and grey as the sun and clouds move. Although the water is salty, the lake freezes over in winter. In summer it draws migratory birds such as bar-headed geese and brahminy ducks. The lake became famous across India after the final scene of the film 3 Idiots was shot on its shore in 2009, and the spot is still busy with photographers. The drive from Leh crosses the Chang La pass, and most visitors either return the same day or stay overnight in camps at Spangmik and nearby villages.

What to see

• The colour shifts on the water from late morning to sunset
• Spangmik, Man and Merak, small villages along the shore with camps and homestays
• The film shoot point near Lukung, the first view of the lake
• Bar-headed geese and brahminy ducks in summer
• A clear night sky, one of the darkest in Ladakh

What to wear

Even in July, nights at Pangong Lake fall below freezing and the wind is strong, so pack a down jacket, a warm hat, gloves and thermal layers. The sun at this height is fierce: bring sunglasses, a sun hat and high-factor sunscreen. Sturdy shoes help on the stony shore. Ladakhi people traditionally wear the goncha, a long woollen robe tied with a bright sash, still seen on older villagers here.

Local food to try

Food at Pangong Lake is simple and served in the camps and roadside dhabas. Expect thukpa noodle soup, momos, rice with dal and vegetables, instant noodles and salty butter tea, which helps against the cold. Vegetarian food is easy to find. In Leh, before you set out, try skyu, a stew of thumb-pressed wheat pasta, and khambir bread with apricot jam.

Good to know

• Best from June to September; the lake is frozen from about January to March
• Open at all times; the road can close after snowfall on Chang La
• Foreign visitors, including Singaporeans, need a Protected Area Permit arranged by a Leh agent
• Allow an overnight stay, or a very long day trip from Leh
• About 160 km from Leh, 5 to 6 hours by road
• Acclimatise in Leh for at least two days first; do not swim or drive onto frozen ice

Nearby places

The road from Leh crosses Chang La and passes Thiksey Monastery and Shey Palace. From Pangong, a road along the Shyok river also links to Nubra Valley, making a loop possible.