Hemis Monastery

Hemis Monastery is the largest and wealthiest Buddhist monastery in Ladakh and the main seat of the Drukpa lineage in the region, set in a side gorge about 45 km southeast of Leh. Hemis Monastery cannot be seen from the main road, which is often said to have protected it through the region's wars.

A monastery existed at Hemis earlier, but the present Hemis Monastery was founded in the 17th century under the patronage of King Sengge Namgyal and the lama Stagsang Raspa. Its large courtyard is the stage for the Hemis festival, or Hemis Tsechu, held on the 10th day of the fifth Tibetan month, usually in June or July, to honour Guru Padmasambhava. Monks in masks and brocade perform cham dances to drums and long horns. Every 12 years, in the Tibetan monkey year, a giant thangka of Padmasambhava is unrolled; the next is due in 2028. The monastery museum holds a fine collection of thangkas, statues and ritual objects.

What to see

• The main courtyard, framed by painted galleries
• The dukhang assembly hall and its murals
• The museum of thangkas, statues and masks
• The Hemis festival cham dances in June or July
• The gorge setting, with poplars and willows below

What to wear

Hemis Monastery is an active monastery, so cover shoulders and knees, remove shoes and hats in the prayer halls and do not walk in front of praying monks. At festival time, dress in layers for hot sun and cool shade, and bring a hat and something soft to sit on. The Hemis festival is the best time to see Ladakhi dress: women in the goncha and turquoise perak headdress, and men in woollen robes with sashes.

Local food to try

Hemis has a small cafe near the car park, and during the festival stalls sell snacks. Try thukpa noodle soup, skyu (a hearty stew of thumb-pressed wheat pasta and vegetables), momos, khambir flatbread with apricot jam, and salty butter tea. Hemis village has homestays that serve simple Ladakhi meals. Food here is mainly vegetarian.

Good to know

• Best from May to October, and during the Hemis festival in June or July
• Open daily, morning to evening
• Entry fee payable at the gate, including the museum
• Allow 1.5 to 2 hours, or a full day at the festival
• About 45 km from Leh, just over an hour by road
• Photography is not allowed inside the museum

Nearby places

Hemis Monastery is usually visited with Thiksey Monastery and Shey Palace on the drive from Leh. The monastery is also a gateway to Hemis National Park, known for snow leopards, and Leh Palace is a good last stop back in town.