Chitrakote Falls

Chitrakote Falls is a horseshoe-shaped waterfall on the Indravati river in the Bastar district of Chhattisgarh, about 40 km west of Jagdalpur. The water drops roughly 30 metres over a curved cliff that stretches close to 300 metres across in the monsoon, making Chitrakote widely described as the widest waterfall in India, and the reason for its nickname, India's Niagara.

Chitrakote Falls changes completely through the year. From July to October the Indravati runs heavy and brown with silt, and the whole face of the cliff roars. By the dry months it separates into several clear streams and the pool below calms enough for boats to go out close to the falls. A small Shiva shrine stands by the edge, and the forests around belong to the tribal heartland of Bastar, so weekly markets in the villages nearby are worth timing a visit around. The falls are lit up in the evening, and a few government and private resorts sit on the rim.

What to see

• The main viewpoint on the rim, looking across the full horseshoe
• The steps down to the base and boat rides to the spray, when water levels allow
• Sunset over the gorge, and the evening lighting
• Rainbows in the mist on sunny monsoon mornings
• Village haats in the Bastar countryside on market days

What to wear

The rocks at Chitrakote Falls are wet and slippery, so wear shoes with good grip rather than sandals, and carry a rain jacket from June to September. Days are hot from March to June; bring a hat and water. Dress modestly in villages and at the small shrine. Bastar's tribal communities have their own dress, with women in cotton sarees worn short and draped without a blouse by older generations, and heavy brass, silver and bead jewellery.

Local food to try

Bastar's best-known dish is chapda, a sharp chutney of red ants and their eggs ground with chilli and salt, sold at village haats. Look also for bohar bhaji, a seasonal leaf vegetable, and salphi, the sap of the sago palm, drunk fresh in the mornings. Across Chhattisgarh try chila, a rice flour pancake, and fara, steamed rice dumplings. Jagdalpur has the widest choice of restaurants; food at the falls is limited to the resorts and a few stalls.

Good to know

• Best time: August to October for full flow; November to February for boating and cool weather
• Hours: open daily in daylight; evening lighting on the rim
• Entry: free or a small local fee; boat rides are paid separately
• Allow 2 to 3 hours, or stay overnight at a resort on the rim
• Getting there: about 40 km from Jagdalpur, which has an airport and railway station
• Stay behind the barriers; drownings have happened near the falls

Nearby places

Chitrakote sits inside the Bastar region, so it pairs naturally with Tirathgarh Falls and the Kanger Valley caves. Sirpur, with its 7th-century brick temple, is about 330 km north near Raipur, and Araku Valley lies several hours' drive east across the Andhra Pradesh border.