Havelock Island Scuba Diving

Havelock Island scuba diving is the main dive scene of the Andaman Islands, run from Havelock Island, officially Swaraj Dweep, about 1.5 to 2.5 hours by ferry from Sri Vijaya Puram (Port Blair). Havelock Island has a string of PADI and SSI dive centres along its east coast, and fringing coral reefs sit a short boat ride from the jetty, which makes it one of the easiest places in India to learn to dive.

The dive industry on Havelock grew from the late 1990s as backpackers and then Indian holidaymakers arrived, and it is now a major part of the island's economy. The Andaman Sea here has hard and soft corals, reef fish, turtles, rays and occasional larger visitors. Havelock scuba diving suits complete beginners on shallow sheltered sites as well as certified divers on deeper pinnacles further out, and most centres also run snorkelling trips and courses.

What to see

• Nemo Reef, a shallow site with anemonefish, good for first dives
• The Wall, a sloping reef with soft corals and schooling fish
• Dixon's Pinnacle, a deeper site with large fish, for certified divers
• Discover Scuba sessions, which need no certification
• Open Water and Advanced courses taught over three to four days

What to wear

On the boat and at the dive centre, swimwear with a rash guard or T-shirt over it is normal, and the centres provide wetsuits. Between dives the sun is fierce, so bring a hat, sunglasses and reef-safe sunscreen. Cover up with shorts and a T-shirt when you leave the beach, as Havelock villages are conservative. Flip-flops are enough on land. Islanders mostly descend from Bengali and Tamil settlers, and you will see sarees, salwar kameez and lungis in the village markets.

Local food to try

Diving works up an appetite, and Havelock's restaurants around Beach No. 3 and Beach No. 5 (Vijaynagar) serve Andaman seafood: fish curry and rice, grilled catch of the day, crab masala and prawns in coconut gravy. Bengali-style fish fry and simple vegetarian thalis are easy to find, as are fresh coconut water and fruit. Many dive centres have their own cafes. Avoid a heavy meal and alcohol right before diving.

Good to know

• Best from roughly October to May; most operators close during the south-west monsoon
• Dives run daily in season, usually with early morning boat departures
• Prices vary by operator and course; book directly with a certified centre rather than beach touts
• Allow at least one day for a try dive and three to four days for an Open Water course
• Dive centres are spread along the east coast, a short ride from Havelock jetty
• Do not fly within 18 to 24 hours of diving; plan the flight home from Sri Vijaya Puram accordingly

Nearby places

After diving, Radhanagar Beach on the west coast of Havelock is the place for sunset. Before or after the ferry, visit the Cellular Jail in Sri Vijaya Puram. On the mainland, Chennai and Marina Beach are about 1,200 km away, a two-hour flight.