Cellular Jail

The Cellular Jail is a British colonial prison in Sri Vijaya Puram, formerly Port Blair, in the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, built between 1896 and 1906 to hold Indian political prisoners far from the mainland. The Cellular Jail took its name from its design: every prisoner had a solitary cell, so men could not talk to or organise with one another. Transportation to the Andamans, known as Kala Pani or 'black water', was feared across India.

Seven three-storey wings radiated from a central watchtower like the spokes of a wheel, with nearly 700 cells, and each wing faced the back of the next so no prisoner could see another's door. Among those held here were Vinayak Damodar Savarkar and Batukeshwar Dutt. Two wings were damaged during the Japanese occupation of 1942 to 1945, and more were demolished after independence. The three wings that remain were declared a National Memorial in 1979.

What to see

• The central tower, which you can climb for a view over the wings and the sea towards Ross Island
• The cell corridors, where the names of freedom fighters are listed
• The gallows room and the oil mill area, where prisoners were forced to grind coconut oil
• The museum and photo gallery on the history of the penal settlement
• The evening light and sound show in the courtyard, telling the jail's story

What to wear

The Cellular Jail is a memorial, so dress modestly: covered shoulders and knees are the respectful choice, and beachwear is out of place. Sri Vijaya Puram is hot and humid all year, so wear light cotton or linen, bring a hat for the open courtyard and wear comfortable shoes for the tower stairs. Carry a light layer or umbrella in the monsoon months. Local people are mostly of Bengali, Tamil, Telugu and Malayali descent, and everyday dress is the saree, salwar kameez and lungi.

Local food to try

Sri Vijaya Puram is the best place in the islands to eat Andaman seafood: fish curry and rice, fried pomfret, crab curry, prawn masala and grilled lobster when in season. The Aberdeen Bazaar area, a short walk from the Cellular Jail, has the densest cluster of eateries, from Bengali fish-and-rice places to South Indian vegetarian canteens serving dosa and meals. Evening snacks such as jhal muri and fish cutlets are sold near the waterfront.

Good to know

• Best from October to May; the monsoon brings heavy rain from June to September
• Open Tuesday to Sunday, about 9am to 12:30pm and 1:30pm to 4:45pm; closed Mondays and national holidays
• Low entry fee, with a higher rate for foreign visitors; camera and light show tickets are separate
• Allow 1.5 to 2 hours, plus about an hour for the evening show
• In central Sri Vijaya Puram, about 4 km from Veer Savarkar International Airport
• Keep voices low in the cells and follow the photography rules posted at the gate

Nearby places

From Sri Vijaya Puram, ferries run to Havelock Island for Radhanagar Beach and scuba diving off Havelock, a trip of roughly 1.5 to 2.5 hours each way. Most flights to the islands connect through Chennai, about 1,200 km away, where Marina Beach is worth an evening.