Nahargarh Fort

Nahargarh Fort is a hilltop fort on the ridge of the Aravalli hills above Jaipur, Rajasthan, built in 1734 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II as part of the city's defences, together with Amber and Jaigarh forts. Nahargarh Fort was never attacked, and it served mainly as a retreat and a lookout over the new capital.

The name means abode of tigers, but local legend links it to Nahar Singh Bhomia, a prince whose spirit is said to have disturbed the builders until a shrine was raised to him inside. In the late 19th century Maharaja Madho Singh II built the Madhavendra Bhawan, a palace of nine identical suites for his queens, joined by corridors so the king could visit any of them unseen. Today most visitors come to Nahargarh Fort for the view, and sunset over Jaipur, with the city lights coming on below, is one of the classic Jaipur experiences.

What to see

• Madhavendra Bhawan, with its painted suites and connecting corridors
• The ramparts, looking down on the grid of the Pink City and Man Sagar Lake
• The Nahar Singh Bhomia shrine near the entrance
• The stepwell inside the fort, seen in the film Rang De Basanti
• Cafes on the walls, open into the evening

What to wear

Nahargarh Fort has no dress code, but modest clothing suits the shrine. Wear good shoes for uneven stone and steps. The ridge is windy and cools fast after sunset in winter, so bring a layer. The painted walls of Madhavendra Bhawan show the court dress of the Jaipur queens: fine muslin odhnis over lehengas, and heavy silver and gold jewellery.

Local food to try

There are cafes and a restaurant on the ramparts for chai, pakoras and simple meals with the sunset. Back in town, eat Jaipur's own dishes: pyaaz kachori, dal baati churma, gatte ki sabzi and laal maas, with ghevar for dessert. Vegetarian food is the norm.

Good to know

• Best from October to March; arrive an hour before sunset for a spot on the walls
• Open daily, morning to evening; the road can be busy at weekends
• Entry fee at the gate, higher for foreign visitors
• Allow 90 minutes to two hours
• About 15 km by road from the walled city via the ridge, or a steep path on foot
• Keep away from the unfenced edges at dusk

Nearby places

Nahargarh looks down on the City Palace, and the ridge road continues to Jaigarh and Amber Fort. The cenotaphs of Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan lie in the valley just below.