Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan

Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan is the royal cremation ground of the Kachhwaha rulers of Jaipur, Rajasthan, set in a quiet valley below Nahargarh Fort. Each ruler is remembered at Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan with a chhatri, a domed cenotaph raised on carved pillars, built in marble or sandstone. The finest is the white marble chhatri of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, founder of Jaipur, supported by 20 carved pillars.

After Jai Singh II moved the capital from Amer to Jaipur in 1727, the royal family chose this valley for cremations, and the chhatris of later maharajas were added over the next two centuries. The name is often explained as a corruption of gaye tore, meaning roughly the place of those who have departed. The chhatris of the royal women stand in a separate enclosure, the Maharani ki Chhatri, on the Amer road. The carving on the domes and pillars shows scenes of daily life, animals and flowers, and because Gaitore lies off the main sightseeing trail, it is usually peaceful.

What to see

• The white marble chhatri of Sawai Jai Singh II, the largest and finest
• The chhatri of Maharaja Madho Singh II, with detailed floral carving
• Carved brackets and friezes of elephants, dancers and battle scenes
• The view up to the walls of Nahargarh on the ridge above

What to wear

Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan is a memorial site, so modest clothing covering shoulders and knees is respectful, and you may be asked to remove shoes on the raised platforms. The marble gets hot by midday; socks help. Bring sun protection. Jaipur's royal and wedding dress, the achkan coat and safa turban for men, can be seen in the painted portraits of these rulers in the City Palace nearby.

Local food to try

There is little to eat at Gaitore itself, but the lakeside promenade nearby has bhutta and chai carts, and the walled city is ten minutes south. There, try pyaaz kachori, dal baati churma, and ghevar or mawa kachori for dessert. Almost everything is vegetarian; the Ramganj area has halal meat.

Good to know

• Best from October to March; late afternoon light warms the marble
• Open daily, morning to evening
• Small entry fee at the gate
• Allow 30 to 45 minutes
• About 5 km north of the walled city, just off the Amer road
• Photography allowed; respect the site as a place of mourning

Nearby places

Gaitore is a short walk from Jal Mahal on the lake, below Nahargarh Fort, and on the way to Amber Fort.