Gulmarg

Gulmarg is a hill resort in a bowl of meadow at about 2,650 metres in the Pir Panjal range, around 50 km west of Srinagar in Kashmir's Baramulla district. Gulmarg is India's best known ski resort, and its gondola climbs in two stages up Apharwat peak to about 3,980 metres, which makes it one of the highest cable cars in the world.

The name means meadow of flowers, and in summer the slopes are carpeted with wildflowers and walked or ridden on horseback rather than skied. The British made Gulmarg a summer retreat in the late 19th century, leaving behind a golf course, now one of the highest green golf courses in the world, and small St Mary's Church. The gondola, run by the Jammu and Kashmir Cable Car Corporation, opened its first phase in 1998 and its second in 2005. Gulmarg sits close to the Line of Control, so check current travel advice before you go.

What to see

• Phase 1 of the Gulmarg Gondola, up to Kongdori at about 3,080 metres
• Phase 2 to Apharwat, with snow into early summer and views to the Himalaya
• Alpather Lake, a glacial lake reached on foot or by pony above Apharwat, frozen until June
• The 18-hole golf course and the old St Mary's Church on the meadow
• Khilanmarg, a higher meadow reached on a pony or on foot

What to wear

Gulmarg is always cooler than Srinagar. In summer, bring layers and a waterproof, since afternoon showers are common. From December to March it is a full snow resort: ski clothing, snow boots, gloves and sunglasses are needed, and gumboots and coats can be hired at the base. Sunscreen matters at the top of the gondola. In the villages you will see the Kashmiri pheran, the long woollen gown worn over a kangri fire pot in winter.

Local food to try

Stalls around the gondola base and at Kongdori sell kahwa, the saffron green tea, along with instant noodles and omelettes. Hotels in Gulmarg and the dhabas at Tangmarg, on the road up, serve Kashmiri dishes such as rogan josh, yakhni and rajma with rice. Meat is halal throughout Kashmir. In winter, look out in Srinagar for harissa, a slow-cooked mutton porridge eaten for breakfast.

Good to know

• Ski season is December to March; wildflowers peak from May to July
• The meadow is open at all times; the gondola runs in daytime, weather permitting
• Gondola tickets are priced by phase and are best booked online in advance
• Allow a full day from Srinagar, or stay a night to ride the gondola early
• About 50 km from Srinagar, 1.5 to 2 hours by road via Tangmarg
• Pony and guide rates are set by the local authority; agree prices first

Nearby places

Gulmarg is most often paired with Dal Lake and the Srinagar houseboats. Vaishno Devi Temple near Katra is roughly 300 km south by road, and Amritsar's Golden Temple is around 500 km away.