Chandni Chowk

Chandni Chowk, the Moonlit Square, is the main bazaar of Old Delhi and one of the oldest and busiest markets in India. It was laid out in the 1650s, when Shah Jahan built his new capital of Shahjahanabad, and its design is credited to his daughter Princess Jahanara. The main street runs west from the Red Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid.

Chandni Chowk once had a canal down its centre that reflected the moonlight, which gave the market its name. Today dozens of narrow lanes branch off the main street, each with its own trade: silver jewellery in Dariba Kalan, wedding trims in Kinari Bazaar, books in Nai Sarak and spices at Khari Baoli, Asia's largest wholesale spice market. The main road was redeveloped and largely closed to cars in 2021, and within a few hundred metres the street holds temples, a gurdwara, a Jain temple and a mosque.

What to see

• Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, where Guru Tegh Bahadur was executed in 1675
• The Digambar Jain Lal Mandir and its bird hospital
• Khari Baoli's sacks of chillies, turmeric and dried fruit
• The silver shops of Dariba Kalan
• Fatehpuri Masjid at the western end of the street

What to wear

Chandni Chowk is crowded and conservative, so wear loose clothes that cover shoulders and knees. Wear closed shoes: lanes can be dirty and wet. Carry a scarf for the gurdwara and temples, where heads are covered and shoes removed. Summer is intensely hot, so go early. In Delhi you will see women in salwar kameez and sarees and men in kurta pyjama, especially at festivals and weddings.

Local food to try

Chandni Chowk is Delhi's street-food capital. Try stuffed paranthas in Paranthe Wali Gali, jalebi at Old Famous Jalebi Wala, dahi bhalla and aloo chaat, and kachori with potato curry for breakfast. Most of this is vegetarian. For halal Mughlai food, head to the lanes near Jama Masjid for kebabs and nihari.

Good to know

• Best from October to March; late morning, when shops open
• Most shops open around 10am to 8pm; many markets close on Sundays
• Free; agree cycle rickshaw fares before setting off
• Allow two to three hours, longer for food
• Chandni Chowk metro station is on the street; about 5 km north of Connaught Place
• Watch your pockets in the crowds; carry small cash

Nearby places

The Red Fort and Jama Masjid are at the eastern end, so all three fit into one morning. Connaught Place is two stops away on the Yellow Line metro.