Jallianwala Bagh

Jallianwala Bagh is a walled public garden in Amritsar, Punjab, a short walk from the Golden Temple, and the site of the massacre of 13 April 1919. That afternoon, on the festival of Baisakhi, troops under Brigadier General Reginald Dyer fired without warning on thousands of unarmed people gathered inside, blocking the only narrow entrance. Jallianwala Bagh is now a national memorial.

The firing lasted about ten minutes. The official British figure was 379 dead, while Indian estimates were far higher, and many more were wounded. The massacre turned millions of Indians against British rule, led Rabindranath Tagore to renounce his knighthood, and became a turning point in the freedom movement. The memorial, a red stone pylon designed by the American architect Benjamin Polk, was inaugurated in 1961. The site was renovated in 2021, with new galleries and an evening sound and light show. Bullet marks remain in the preserved walls, and the Martyrs' Well, where many people jumped to escape the shooting, is still there.

What to see

• The narrow entrance lane through which the troops entered
• Walls with bullet marks, outlined for visitors
• The Martyrs' Well
• The Flame of Liberty and the central memorial
• The galleries on the massacre and Punjab's freedom struggle
• The evening sound and light show

What to wear

Jallianwala Bagh is a place of mourning, so dress modestly and keep voices low. Most people visit together with the Golden Temple, so wearing clothes that cover shoulders and knees, with a scarf for your head, suits both. Summers in Amritsar are very hot, often above 40°C in May and June, and winter mornings are foggy and cold, so plan layers. Punjabi dress includes the salwar kameez and phulkari dupatta for women and the turban, kurta and pyjama for men.

Local food to try

The lanes between Jallianwala Bagh and the Golden Temple are full of places serving Amritsari kulcha with chole, lassi, jalebi and pinni. Kesar Da Dhaba, in the old city nearby, is known for its dal and parathas. For non-vegetarian food try Amritsari fish and tandoori chicken in the Lawrence Road area, away from the temple zone.

Good to know

• Best time: October to March; morning is quieter
• Hours: daily, roughly 6.30am to 7.30pm, varying by season
• Entry: free; the sound and light show may charge
• Allow 45 minutes to 1 hour
• Getting there: about 400 metres from the Golden Temple, 12 km from Amritsar airport
• Photography is allowed; be respectful at the well

Nearby places

The Golden Temple is a short walk away, and the Wagah border retreat ceremony is about 30 km west. McLeod Ganj in the Himachal hills is about 200 km north-east.