Chilika Lake

Chilika Lake is a brackish water lagoon on the Odisha coast, spread across the Puri, Khordha and Ganjam districts and separated from the Bay of Bengal by a long sandbar. Chilika Lake is the largest coastal lagoon in India, covering more than 1,000 square kilometres, and in 1981 it became the first Indian wetland listed under the Ramsar Convention.

Chilika Lake is one of the most important wintering grounds for migratory birds in Asia. From November to February, flamingos, ducks, geese, waders and raptors arrive from Central Asia, Siberia and the Himalaya, and the Nalabana Bird Sanctuary on an island in the middle of the lagoon is the centre of the gatherings. Near the sea mouth at Satapada lives a small population of Irrawaddy dolphins, which boats go out to watch. The lagoon supports many fishing villages, and a new sea mouth cut in 2000 has helped restore its salt balance and fish stocks. Kalijai, a temple on a small island, draws pilgrims during the Makar Sankranti festival.

What to see

• Irrawaddy dolphins near Satapada, seen from small boats
• Nalabana Bird Sanctuary in winter
• Mangalajodi, a marsh village known for close bird watching by punt
• Kalijai Temple on its island
• Sunrise over the sandbar and the sea mouth
• The quieter southern shore at Rambha and Barkul

What to wear

For boat trips on Chilika Lake wear light, quick-drying clothes, a hat and sunglasses; there is no shade on most boats and the glare off the water is strong. Winter dawns for bird watching can be cool, so bring a light jacket. Cover shoulders and knees at Kalijai Temple and remove shoes there. Odisha's handwoven ikat, including Sambalpuri and Bomkai sarees, is the traditional dress of the region, and fisher families wear cotton lungis and gamchhas.

Local food to try

Chilika Lake is famous for its seafood: Chilika crab, tiger prawns and mud crab cooked in mustard and chilli gravies, and fresh fish curry with rice. Small restaurants at Satapada and Barkul serve the day's catch. Vegetarians can try dalma, santula and chhena poda. Ask how prawns are sourced, since many are now farmed.

Good to know

• Best time: November to February for birds; October to March for dolphins in calm water
• Hours: boats run in daylight, roughly 6am to 5pm
• Entry: no lake fee; boat hire is charged by trip
• Allow half a day for a dolphin trip, a full day with Nalabana
• Getting there: Satapada is about 50 km from Puri; Barkul about 100 km from Bhubaneswar
• Choose licensed boats and ask boatmen not to chase the dolphins

Nearby places

Satapada is about 50 km from the Jagannath Temple in Puri, and the Konark Sun Temple is around 90 km north-east. Further down the coast, RK Beach in Visakhapatnam is roughly a day's drive south.