Ima Keithel

Ima Keithel is a large market in Imphal, Manipur, run entirely by women, and its name means mothers' market in the Meitei language. Ima Keithel has several thousand stalls, and it is commonly described as the largest market in Asia run only by women. Traditionally only married women may hold a stall, and stalls are often passed down from mother to daughter.

The market has existed for centuries. Its origin is linked to the old lallup system, under which Meitei men were called away for labour and military service, leaving trade in the hands of women. Ima Keithel has also been a centre of political action: the market women led the Nupi Lan, the women's wars against British policies in 1904 and 1939. Today the traders work from three large market buildings in Khwairamband Bazar, rebuilt after the 2016 earthquake, and the market's women's associations remain an important voice in Manipur's public life.

What to see

• Vegetable, fruit and fresh fish sections, busiest in the morning
• Dried and fermented fish, including ngari, stacked in baskets
• Handloom phanek and innaphi, and Manipuri shawls
• Local herbs, black rice and seasonal produce from the valley
• Pottery, bamboo baskets and ritual items

What to wear

Wear comfortable, modest clothing and closed shoes, as floors in the fish and vegetable sections are wet. Imphal is mild; bring a light jacket in winter and an umbrella from May to September. Many of the traders wear the phanek, the striped wrap skirt of Meitei women, with an innaphi shawl, and the market is one of the best places to buy them.

Local food to try

Ima Keithel is a good place to taste Manipuri food. Look for singju, a salad of cabbage, herbs and chickpea flour, eromba made with fermented fish and chilli, and snacks such as fried bora fritters. Chak-hao black rice and its kheer are sold here and in nearby eateries. Vegetarian food is easy to find, and small hotels around Khwairamband Bazar serve Manipuri thalis at lunchtime.

Good to know

• Best time: October to March; go in the morning for the liveliest trading
• Open daily, roughly 7am to 6pm
• Free to enter; cash is the norm
• Allow one to two hours
• In Khwairamband Bazar, central Imphal, a short walk from Kangla Fort; about 8 km from the airport
• Ask the traders before taking photos; foreign visitors need a Protected Area Permit for Manipur

Nearby places

Ima Keithel sits beside Kangla Fort, the old royal seat, and most visitors combine the two in a morning. A day trip south leads to Loktak Lake and its floating phumdis, and Nagaland's Kisama Heritage Village is about 150 km north.