Lonavala

Lonavala is a hill station at about 620 metres in the Sahyadri range of the Western Ghats, on the road and rail line between Mumbai and Pune in Maharashtra. Lonavala has been the weekend retreat for both cities since the British built the Bhor Ghat railway through the hills in the 19th century, and it is about 85 km from Mumbai and 65 km from Pune.

Lonavala and its twin town Khandala sit on the edge of the escarpment where the Deccan plateau drops towards the coast. The area was fought over by the Marathas, and the forts of Lohagad, Visapur and Rajmachi still crown the ridges. Even older are the Buddhist rock-cut caves at Karla and Bhaja, dating from around the 2nd and 1st centuries BCE. The monsoon, from June to September, is when Lonavala fills with visitors: the hills turn green, waterfalls pour off the cliffs and mist rolls through the valleys. Chikki, a hard brittle of jaggery and nuts, is the local thing to buy, and shops on the main road sell it in dozens of flavours.

What to see

• Tiger's Leap (Tiger Point), a cliff viewpoint over the valley, best in the monsoon mist
• The Karla Caves, with one of the largest and best preserved Buddhist chaitya halls in India
• The Bhaja Caves, a group of early Buddhist caves with a row of stupas
• Lohagad Fort, a Maratha hill fort with an easy climb and wide views
• Bhushi Dam, where water spills over the steps in the rains

What to wear

Casual clothes are fine in Lonavala. In the monsoon bring a rain jacket, quick-drying clothes and shoes with good grip, as paths and fort steps are slippery. Winter evenings, from November to February, are cool enough for a light jacket. At the Karla Caves an active temple to the goddess Ekvira stands at the entrance, so cover shoulders and knees and remove shoes where asked. Local Maharashtrian dress includes the nauvari saree and, for men, the white kurta and pheta turban.

Local food to try

Lonavala is famous for chikki and fudge, sold along the main bazaar road, with Maganlal Chikki the best-known name. Monsoon food is part of the ritual: hot kanda bhaji (onion fritters), vada pav and roasted corn at roadside stalls along the viewpoints, with masala chai. Maharashtrian misal pav, a spicy sprouted bean curry with bread, and thalis are easy to find in town. Vegetarian food is everywhere.

Good to know

• Best time: June to September for the green monsoon; October to February for clear, cool weather
• Open at all times; viewpoints are best in the morning before crowds and fog
• No fee for the town; small entry fees at the caves, forts and some viewpoints
• Allow a day trip or one night from Mumbai or Pune
• About 85 km from Mumbai and 65 km from Pune by expressway or train
• Avoid wading into streams and waterfalls in heavy rain; flash floods have caused drownings

Nearby places

Lonavala is an easy add-on from Mumbai: the Gateway of India is about 85 km away by road, and the airport, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport, is about two hours by car. The Ellora Caves are further, at about 230 km to the north east.