Elephanta Caves

The Elephanta Caves are a group of rock-cut cave temples on Elephanta Island, also called Gharapuri, in Mumbai harbour, mostly dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and generally dated to the 5th to 7th centuries. The Elephanta Caves hold some of the finest sculpture in India, above all the Trimurti, a huge three-headed image of Shiva, and they became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

There are seven caves in two groups: five Hindu caves on the western hill, including the Great Cave, and two smaller Buddhist caves on the eastern hill. The Portuguese named the island Elephanta after a large stone elephant that stood near the landing; it was later moved to the mainland and now stands in the grounds of the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum at Byculla. Portuguese soldiers are said to have damaged many sculptures, but the Great Cave still holds large carved panels of Shiva's stories, and the Trimurti, about 6 metres tall, shows him as creator, preserver and destroyer. The crossing is part of the fun: about an hour by ferry from the Gateway of India, then a climb of around 120 steps lined with stalls.

What to see

• The Trimurti (Sadashiva) in the Great Cave, Cave 1
• Carved panels of Shiva as Ardhanarishvara, half man and half woman, and of Shiva's marriage to Parvati
• Shiva as Nataraja, lord of the dance, and the panel of Ravana shaking Mount Kailash
• The square linga shrine in the Great Cave, with guardian figures at its four doors
• Views back across the harbour to the Mumbai skyline from the hilltop

What to wear

The Elephanta Caves are not an active temple, but modest clothing covering shoulders and knees is respectful. The climb is hot and humid, so wear light cotton, a hat and comfortable shoes with grip for the steps; the ferry deck can be windy. Carry water and keep food and bags closed, as monkeys on the island snatch snacks. In Mumbai you will see Koli fisherwomen in brightly coloured sarees draped in their own style, the traditional dress of the city's original fishing community.

Local food to try

Stalls on Elephanta Island sell water, coconut water, cut fruit and simple snacks, and small restaurants near the jetty serve thalis and fried fish. The better meal is back in Colaba: Koli-style seafood such as bombil fry (Bombay duck) and prawn curry, or vada pav, pav bhaji and bhelpuri from street carts. Around Colaba Causeway, old cafes serve Parsi and Irani dishes like berry pulao and bun maska.

Good to know

• Best time: November to February; take a morning ferry to avoid midday heat
• Closed on Mondays; ferries run from morning to mid-afternoon, with the last return in the late afternoon
• Entry fee at the gate, higher for foreign visitors; ferry tickets extra
• Allow half a day including the ferry
• About 10 km across the harbour from the Gateway of India, an hour each way
• Ferries do not run in rough weather, and services can be reduced in the monsoon

Nearby places

Ferries to the Elephanta Caves leave from the Gateway of India, so combine the trip with a walk along Colaba Causeway and an evening on Marine Drive.