Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (CSMT)

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, formerly Victoria Terminus and widely called CSMT, is a working railway station in the Fort area of Mumbai and one of the grandest station buildings in the world. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus was designed by the British architect Frederick William Stevens and built between 1878 and 1888 in a Victorian Gothic style blended with Indian details.

The station was named Victoria Terminus in honour of Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee in 1887, and it served as the headquarters of the Great Indian Peninsula Railway, now Central Railway. It was renamed in 1996 after the 17th-century Maratha king Shivaji, with Maharaj added in 2017. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004, and it is still one of the busiest stations in India, used by millions of suburban and long-distance passengers. In November 2008 it was one of the targets of the Mumbai terror attacks, remembered in a small memorial.

What to see

• The central dome, topped by a statue representing Progress holding a torch
• Carved stone gargoyles, peacocks, monkeys and lions, made by Indian craftsmen trained at the Sir J J School of Art
• The stained glass and ribbed vaults of the old booking hall
• The Heritage Gallery and guided heritage walk inside the headquarters building
• The facade lit up in colour at night, best from the traffic island across the road

What to wear

There is no dress code at Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus; wear light, comfortable clothing for Mumbai's humidity and shoes suited to crowds and uneven pavements. Keep bags in front of you in the rush hours. In the monsoon, carry an umbrella. Among the crowds you may see dabbawalas, the lunchbox carriers of Mumbai, in their white kurtas and Gandhi caps, a working uniform that has become a symbol of the city.

Local food to try

The Fort area around Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus is full of old Irani cafes serving bun maska, brun pav and chai, and Parsi dishes like berry pulao and dhansak. Kyani and Co near Dhobi Talao has served customers since 1904. Nearby Mohammed Ali Road, about 2 km north, is famous for halal kebabs, nalli nihari and malpua, especially in Ramadan. Vada pav and pav bhaji stalls are everywhere around the station.

Good to know

• Best time: November to February; the facade is best photographed in the late afternoon or when lit at night
• Station open at all times; the heritage walk runs on weekdays on a schedule
• Free to view from outside; the heritage walk is ticketed
• Allow 30 minutes for the facade, an hour or more with the heritage walk
• In the Fort area of South Mumbai, about 3 km from the Gateway of India
• Photography is allowed of the exterior; avoid peak commuter hours on the platforms

Nearby places

From Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus it is a short taxi ride to the Gateway of India and Colaba Causeway, and about 2 km west to Marine Drive for sunset.