Khardung La

Khardung La is a high mountain pass at about 5,359 metres on the road from Leh to the Nubra Valley in Ladakh, and one of the best known road passes in the Himalaya. The signboard at Khardung La claims a much higher figure, but surveys put it at about 5,359 metres, and several other roads in Ladakh now go higher.

Khardung La was part of the old caravan route between Leh and Central Asia, crossed by pony and camel trains carrying salt, wool and silk. Today it is a strategic road kept open by the Border Roads Organisation, used by army convoys heading towards the Siachen Glacier. Snow can fall at any time of year, and the road is kept open for much of the winter. At the top, prayer flags flap in the wind, and there is a small temple, an army cafe and a souvenir stall. The air holds about half the oxygen of sea level, so visitors should stay only briefly, move slowly and drink water.

What to see

• The summit signboard and prayer flags
• Views of snow peaks on both sides of the pass
• Leh and the Indus valley far below on the way up
• South Pullu and North Pullu, the army checkposts on either side
• The descent into the Shyok valley towards Nubra

What to wear

Khardung La is cold at every season, with snow and strong wind common even in summer, so wear a down jacket, a warm hat, gloves and thermal layers, and keep them in the car. Bring sunglasses and sunscreen, as snow glare is intense. Sturdy shoes help on icy ground. Ladakhis traditionally wear the goncha, a thick woollen robe tied with a sash, well suited to this cold.

Local food to try

The army-run cafe at the summit serves hot tea, coffee, instant noodles and snacks. Many drivers stop at South Pullu or North Pullu for tea and a plate of momos or thukpa. Back in Leh or down in Nubra, try skyu, khambir with apricot jam and butter tea. Vegetarian food is the norm on the road.

Good to know

• Best from June to September; the road can close after snowfall
• Road open subject to weather and army control
• Foreign visitors need a Protected Area Permit, arranged by a Leh agent
• Allow 15 to 20 minutes at the top, no more
• About 40 km north of Leh, around 2 hours by road
• Acclimatise at least two days in Leh first; no photos of army installations

Nearby places

Khardung La is the gateway from Leh to Nubra Valley, where Diskit Monastery and the Hunder Sand Dunes are the main sights. The road starts from Leh town.