Alleppey Backwaters

The Alleppey backwaters are a network of lagoons, lakes, rivers and canals around Alappuzha, on the Kerala coast, fed by rivers from the Western Ghats and separated from the Arabian Sea by a narrow strip of land. They merge into Vembanad Lake, the longest lake in India. Villages, paddy fields and coconut groves line the banks, and in the Kuttanad region much of the farmland lies below sea level, protected by dykes.

For centuries the Alleppey backwaters were Kerala's highways, carrying rice, coir and spices by boat to the port. The heavy wooden rice barges, called kettuvallam, lost their trade to roads and were converted from the 1990s into houseboats with bedrooms, decks and a cook on board. Today a night on a houseboat is one of the most popular experiences in Kerala. Each August the Nehru Trophy Boat Race brings the long snake boats of Kuttanad to Punnamada Lake, with more than a hundred rowers in a single boat.

What to see

• An overnight kettuvallam houseboat cruise from Alappuzha through Kuttanad
• Narrow village canals by country canoe or shikara, too tight for houseboats
• Paddy fields farmed below the water level of the surrounding canals
• Coir making, toddy tapping and daily village life along the banks
• The Nehru Trophy snake boat race on Punnamada Lake in August

What to wear

The Alleppey backwaters are hot and humid all year, so light, breathable cotton and linen, a hat and sunscreen are the basics, with insect repellent for evenings on the water. Bring a light rain layer from June to September. Houseboat decks are barefoot spaces. For churches and temples along the way, cover shoulders and knees. Kerala's traditional dress is the off-white kasavu saree with a gold border for women, and the white mundu, worn wrapped at the waist, for men.

Local food to try

Houseboat cooks serve the backwater classics: karimeen pollichathu, pearl spot fish marinated in spices and grilled in a banana leaf; Alappuzha fish curry, soured with kudampuli and cooked in coconut milk; and Kuttanad duck roast. Toddy shops along the canals serve spicy fish and kappa, boiled tapioca. Appam with vegetable stew and red Kerala rice suit vegetarians. Tell the crew in advance about vegetarian, halal or spice preferences.

Good to know

• Best time: October to March for dry, pleasant weather; August for the Nehru Trophy race
• Open at all times; houseboats usually board around noon, moor for the night by early evening and return next morning
• Houseboat rates vary widely by size, season and cabin category; canoe tours are cheaper
• Allow one night on a houseboat, or a half day by canoe if time is short
• Alappuzha is about 55 km, or one and a half hours, south of Kochi
• Choose licensed houseboats; plastic use on the water is restricted

Nearby places

The Alleppey backwaters are an easy day's drive from the historic port of Fort Kochi, where the Chinese Fishing Nets stand on the shore. Most Kerala itineraries also climb east to the tea hills of Munnar or run south to the beaches of Kovalam.