Baidyanath Temple

Baidyanath Temple, or Baba Baidyanath Dham, is a Shiva temple in Deoghar, Jharkhand, and one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, the most sacred shrines of Shiva in Hinduism. Baidyanath Temple is also counted among the Shakti Peethas, and it is one of the busiest pilgrimage sites in eastern India.

The walled compound holds the main shrine of Baidyanath and about twenty smaller temples to other deities, including Parvati, whose temple is tied to Shiva's by red silk cords. Legend links the lingam to Ravana, who is said to have been carrying it to Lanka when he was tricked into setting it down here. Baidyanath Temple is the destination of the Shravani Mela in July and August, when huge numbers of kanwariya pilgrims, dressed in saffron, walk about 105 km barefoot from Sultanganj on the Ganges carrying river water on shoulder poles to pour over the lingam. During that month queues last many hours; outside it, the temple is far calmer.

What to see

• The main Baidyanath shrine with its tall stone tower
• The Parvati temple linked to it with red cords
• The smaller shrines around the courtyard
• The Shravani Mela crowds in July and August
• Naulakha Mandir, a 20th-century temple in Deoghar town

What to wear

At Baidyanath Temple dress conservatively, covering shoulders and knees; men often wear dhoti or kurta pyjama and women sarees or salwar kameez. Shoes are left outside, and leather items such as belts and wallets are best left behind. The temple floors get very hot in summer and crowded in Shravan, so keep valuables minimal. Pilgrims in the Shravani Mela wear saffron. Deoghar is hot from April to June and cool from December to February.

Local food to try

Deoghar is famous for its peda, a dense milk sweet sold by the kilo at shops around the temple and on the roads into town. Litti chokha, puri with aloo sabzi, kachori and jalebi are the usual breakfasts. Food near the temple is vegetarian; during the mela, roadside stalls give free snacks and water to kanwariyas.

Good to know

• Best time: October to March; July and August only if you want the mela
• Hours: daily, roughly 4am to 9pm, with breaks for rituals
• Entry: free darshan; paid quick-darshan passes are sometimes offered
• Allow 2 hours outside the mela, most of a day during it
• Getting there: Deoghar airport is about 10 km away; Jasidih railway station about 7 km
• Phones and cameras are usually not allowed inside the sanctum

Nearby places

From Deoghar, Hundru Falls near Ranchi is about 250 km south-west, and the Mahabodhi Temple at Bodh Gaya is roughly 200 km west. Nalanda is also within a long day's drive to the north-west.