Sela Pass

Sela Pass is a high mountain pass at about 4,170 m in the West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh, carrying the road between Dirang and Tawang over the eastern Himalaya. Sela Pass is the gateway to the Tawang valley, and for decades every traveller, trader and soldier bound for Tawang had to cross it. Sela Lake, a glacial lake that freezes in winter, lies just below the top and is held sacred in local Buddhist belief, with many smaller lakes scattered around it.

The pass is closely tied to the 1962 war between India and China. Local legend connects its name to Sela, a Monpa girl said to have helped the Indian soldier Jaswant Singh Rawat, whose last stand is commemorated at the Jaswant Garh war memorial on the Tawang side. The Border Roads Organisation keeps the road open for most of the year, though heavy snow can close it for days. In March 2024 the Sela Tunnel opened beneath the pass, giving an all-weather route to Tawang, so the summit road is now mostly used by travellers who want the views and the lake.

What to see

• The Sela Pass gateway, hung with prayer flags, at the summit
• Sela Lake, frozen white in winter and deep blue in spring and autumn
• Snow peaks and bare high-altitude slopes, with yaks grazing in summer
• The Jaswant Garh war memorial a short drive towards Tawang
• Nuranang (Jang) Falls further down on the Tawang side

What to wear

Sela Pass is cold at any time of year and can be windy and snowy even in spring. Wear thermal layers, a down jacket, a warm hat, gloves and sunglasses; the high-altitude sun is harsh on snow. Waterproof shoes with good grip help on icy ground around the lake. There is no dress code at the pass itself, but keep shoulders covered and remove shoes if you step into the small shrine. Monpa herders here often wear thick woollen robes and the black felt yak-wool cap of the region.

Local food to try

Food at Sela Pass is simple: small army-run and local cafes sell sweet tea, instant noodles, momos and hot snacks, which are very welcome in the cold. Eat properly in Dirang or Tawang, where Monpa kitchens serve thukpa, momos, zan with stew, and buckwheat khura pancakes. Dirang is known for its yak cheese and apple and kiwi orchards. Vegetarian meals are easy to find in both towns.

Good to know

• Best time: April to June and October to November; December to March often brings snow and closures
• Road open 24 hours in principle, but only travel in daylight and check weather the day before
• No entry fee; Protected Area Permit for foreigners and Inner Line Permit for Indians cover the route
• Allow 30 to 60 minutes at the top; stay short to limit altitude effects
• About 70 km before Tawang and a few hours' drive above Dirang
• The border area has military installations; do not photograph army posts or vehicles

Nearby places

Most travellers cross Sela Pass on the way to Tawang Monastery, a few hours further north. Further east in the state, Ziro Valley is a separate multi-day journey, and the long road down to the plains leads towards Kaziranga National Park in Assam.